TYPES OF HOOKS

Whether you are a weekend hobbyist or a tournament pro, the hook is the most critical link between you and the fish. Choosing the wrong one doesn’t just mean a missed bite; it can mean a snapped line or a deep-hooked fish that won’t survive release.

Here is a breakdown of the most common fishing hooks and when to use them to ensure your tackle box is ready for any water.

1. Bait Hooks (The All-Rounders)

These are designed to hold live or prepared bait securely.

  • Baitholder Hook: Features tiny barbs on the shank to keep worms or leeches from sliding off.
  • Circle Hook: Designed so the fish hooks itself in the corner of the mouth as it swims away. Pro Tip: Never “set the hook” with a circle hook; just start reeling.
  • Octopus Hook: Short-shanked and rounded. Great for natural baits when you need a stealthy presentation.

2. Bass & Soft Plastic Hooks

If you’re fishing with rubber worms, creatures, or craws, these are your bread and butter.

  • EWG (Extra Wide Gap) Hook: The “gold standard” for Texas rigging. The deep bend allows the hook point to clear thick plastic baits when a fish bites.
  • Offset Shank Hook: Similar to the EWG but with a narrower gap, perfect for slim worms and finesse setups.
  • Wacky Hook: A short, wide-gap hook used for hooking a rubber worm right through the middle. Often comes with a “weed guard” to prevent snags.

3. Treble Hooks

These feature three bends and points fused to a single eye.

  • Best For: Crankbaits, jerkbaits, and topwater lures.
  • Safety Note: They provide the best hook-up ratio but are the hardest to remove. Always keep a pair of long-nose pliers handy!

4. Specialized & Technical Hooks

For when the conditions get tough or the species gets specific.

  • Siwash Hook: A single hook with a large eye, often used to replace treble hooks on spoons or lures to make “catch and release” easier and safer.
  • Jig Head: A hook with a lead (or tungsten) weight molded onto the head. Essential for bounce-along-the-bottom fishing.
  • Aberdeen Hook: Made of light, thin wire. If you get snagged on a log, the wire will bend rather than snap your line, and it keeps delicate minnows alive longer.

Hook Anatomy: Quick Reference

To understand hooks, you need to know the “lingo”:

  • The Point: The sharp end that penetrates the fish.
  • The Shank: The long straight part between the eye and the bend.
  • The Gap: The distance between the shank and the point (wider gaps are better for thick baits).
  • The Eye: Where you tie your knot ($Uni$, $Palomar$, or $Improved$ $Clinch$).

Which Hook Size Do I Need?

Hook sizing can be confusing. Here is the “Golden Rule” of sizing:

  1. Standard Sizes: Run from 32 (smallest) to 1 (largest). A size 4 hook is much larger than a size 12.
  2. Aught Sizes: Once you pass size 1, they go to 1/0, 2/0, up to 20/0. In this system, the higher the number, the larger the hook.

Fish Species

Recommended Hook Type

Common Size

Panfish/Bluegill

Aberdeen

#8 – #12

Bass (Texas Rig)

EWG

3/0 – 5/0

Catfish

Circle Hook

5/0 – 8/0

Trout

Octopus/Bait

#10 – #14